Free Car A/C Systems Guides - Refrigerant Is Improved

Any mechanic knows, ability to present comprehensive service to the customers, being capable to offer repairs & care for all the aspects of motorcar maintenance program is a key to retain customers. The AC is standard across all the models nowadays, and while in past, air conditioning maintenance was highly skilled & niche marketplace, it is now essential side of business & key to any of the workshop's sustained success.
To make sure that the refrigerant is improved properly from car's AC system at time of servicing, workshop should use automotive air conditioning machine. These particular devices prevent free through venting of the CFC gases. As EPA guidelines need that when car is getting serviced, Freon, and CFC12, which is been used as coolant must be collected & recycled sequentially that it is not been released in environment where it will potentially damage ozone layer.



Refrigerant used in the most motorcar AC systems is generally based on the chlorofluorocarbons, that is linked with causing the damage to ozone layer, and control of these materials is of concern to environmental agency. Whenever car AC system experiences maintenance, correct care should be taken in order to protect environment from release of the CFCs, & this is done best by using the automotive air conditioning Machines.
Reusing Freon gas instead of allowing it to get vent in atmosphere protects environment. But, when refrigerant is gathered from car's AC it is contaminated with oil, water, and other liquids, which are used in the cars. Using automotive air conditioning machines, it is likely to process refrigerant & remove other fluids from that, allowing it to get reused, in a same system like it has got drained from, or in some other car altogether.
The automotive air conditioning dynamo electric machine is able to provide enough rotational production for starting the engine by running rotor at very high speed in motor operation form for starting engine, as a result obviating need for increasing the size thereof. In motor operation form, electromagnetic clutch fan connects to the electromagnetic clutch major body and as well engages cylindrical member in order to break cylindrical member. The internal gear portion gives fixed element, & torque of rotor is been transmitted to power transmission tool via rotor shaft, sun gear, planetary gear, and carrier.
Alternators are been used in the modern autos to charge battery as well as to power car's electric system when the engine is running. The alternators have great benefit on direct current generators of not making use of commutator that makes it simpler, less costly, as well as more rugged than DC generator.
If presenting AC repairs & servicing is main key to business, then having right tools for job is necessary. Getting it correct at beginning while you choose the AC coolant revival machine often means selecting model from Cool Tech range. All of these robust & very regarded specialist apparatus are at center of any severe AC shop, & thanks to their competence and good value for money, can pay for himself or herself again and again.

Free Guides on Performing A Radiator Flush

The car's radiator is responsible for keeping your engine cool and prevents it from overheating. However, as time passes, the radiator can get quite dirty and will need to be cleaned in order to perform efficiently in keeping your engine cool. Cleaning the radiator by performing a radiator flush is inexpensive and will prevent expensive damages to your car's engine. Also, it is something that you can do yourself.Before you perform a radiator flush, you need to make sure that you have everything that you need to perform it. There's nothing more frustrating than draining your radiator only to realize that you need something from the auto parts store that is in another part of town to completely perform the flush.What you will need is a Phillips head screwdriver or a wrench (depending on what the radiator requires), a cloth rag, coolant, radiator flush solution, funnel, and a used coolant receptacle.



Before you perform the radiator flush, you need to make sure that your engine is completely cool. If you just used your car, let it cool for a few hours, or perform the flush the next day.Now that you are ready to perform the radiator flush, the first step is to drain the radiator of the old coolant. Locate the drain plug, which could be anywhere along the bottom of the radiator. It will either be a screw or a bolt plug or even a petcock. Before you loosen it and let the old coolant drain out, be sure that the used coolant receptacle is placed under the drain.After the radiator is completely drained, replace the drain plug and open the radiator cap. Add the contents of the radiator flush solution to the radiator and fill it to the top with water.Replace the radiator cap and make sure it's tight.
After that, start the car and let it run until it gets to its operating temperature or when you see that temp gauge reach the temperature level it normally stays at.Then, turn your heater on and move the temperature control to the hottest position. Let the car and the heater run for about 10 to 15 minutes and turn the car off as well as the heater. Wait until the engine cools off. If the radiator cap is still hot to the touch, it's still hot to open.Once the engine has cooled down, the next step is to drain the radiator again.
Open the drain plug and empty the contents in the radiator. Just remember that nothing from the radiator should leak onto the ground.Now that the radiator is cleaned, the next step is to replace the radiator drain plug or close the petcock. Then, open the radiator cap and refill the radiator with fresh coolant. It is recommended that you fill the radiator with 1:1 mixture of coolant and water. This means that 50 percent should be coolant and the remaining 50 percent should be water. After you fill the radiator, you can fill the plastic coolant reservoir with the same coolant and water mixture.Tighten everything, including the caps and you are ready to go. With a clean radiator, you can be sure that you are keeping your car's engine properly maintained and perform efficiently.

Checking Your Car's Cooling System

Regular inspection of a vehicles cooling system is a task which can be performed by anyone, even those not experts in the field of automotive. This inspection is very important especially during spring season when cars easily experience overheating due to poorly maintained cooling system. Unfortunately most owners deal with their cooling system problem when it is already severe. Car owners are advised to make sure there is enough coolant or antifreeze in the system. Inspecting the level of coolant or antifreeze is made easy with many recent model cars having semi-transparent plastic coolant reservoirs.

Auto mobile experts say a vehicle must also have 50:50 antifreeze or coolant and water mixture. The span of the coolant mixture is as important as ratio of the mixture. This is because the coolant contains corrosion inhibitors which are vital to the engines life. Rust, scale and acid formation are results of failure to keep fresh coolant in the system. Eventually, this can also result to over heating and engine damage. Replacing the coolant can help prevent this. Thirty thousand miles or 24 months is the typical coolant replacement interval for many vehicles. But some newer more refined cars with extended-life coolant can go 100,000 miles or more.
Before, automotive repair shops suggests opening the radiator petcock valve and removing the lower radiator hose to drain the fluid into a catch pan for later reclamation. However, in this era with advanced technology, this procedure gives rise to a few problems. First is that the old fluid is being trapped in hoses, in the heater core and in the engine block. In rare cases, majority of the fluid is held only to be mixed with the fresh coolant. This contamination severely diminishes the new coolant or antifreezes efficiency, quality and corrosion inhibitor longevity.
Another thing is that any rust or scale deposits in the radiator, heater core or engine remain after the drain and refill. This results to a blockage. This blockage further diminishes the cooling systems efficiency and increases the chances of excessive heating.
Lastly, the proper disposal of old coolant captures all of the old ones, including that which was flushed from the system with water, and delivering it to a recycling center. Volkswagen, maker of quality VW fan, offers performance quality cooling system that does not easily breaks down even during very hot weather. Nonetheless, maintenance must also be done to extend its longevity.

Enhancing the Cooling System

In a number of things, heat is not always beneficial. However, when it involves internal combustion engine processes and operations, heat is a constant, an inevitable part of the equation. Engines may perform greatly under higher temperatures, but while this is a distinct advantage, there are also set-backs. With heat, a considerable number of car parts eventually suffer and fail. The materials used for the sensitive wirings and tubing under the hood acquire damages over time, for one. Another familiar engine problem is overheating.

Hence, carmakers created a way for car systems to tone down the heat. This is how the cooling system came out. The cooling system basically has two tasks to carry out: to cool down temperature, and to keep this temperature consistently along operating levels. The cooling system basically consists of the fan, radiator, and the water pump. Since heat must be effaced, air is one element that must always be present in the engine bay. The air that passes through the grille is what the cooling system will utilize. It ends up being circulated by the fan so that the radiator could transfer both the heat and the coolant.
If one wants to improve the efficiency of this operation though, enhancers are handily available.
One simple way is to help out the cooling fan in its operations. This can be achieved by installing a fan shroud. As the name suggests, a fan shroud is like a cloak that directs the air to the radiator with precision. Without a fan shroud, air recirculation inside the engine bay is less focused, occurring in near-haphazard fashion. This only serves to put a damper on the efforts of the radiator. But, with fan shrouds in tow, air is properly led to the radiator and the process is not only hastened, but done with a great deal more efficiency as well. Hence, to enhance cooling performance, one sure-fire way to accomplish that is to opt for the use of fan shrouds. Another way to upgrade the cooling system is through consistent check-ups. When one part is not functioning, the whole system is at risk. One must, for example, double-check the hoses. Even a slight puncture can let air out. After understanding how important air is in this system, one definitely cannot dismiss troubles of this sort.

Heater Core Problems - Cold Snap Solutions!

Doesn't it figure, that the very first time you have a problem with your car's heater core is when you need it the most: in the middle of a horrible cold snap. Frost on the outside and frost on the inside -- giving new meaning to air conditioned discomfort. Cranking up the heat means billows of cold air filling your car's cabin instead of the soothing and relaxing heat you should be feeling...ugh! Sounds like a job for your mechanic, but it may be something you can repair yourself. Please read on for more information.
Playing with the heat settings does no good and a check of the coolant, hoses, and connections reveals that everything is okay. So, what is the problem? More than likely your Ford heater core has died. You jump in your car and head directly over to your Ford dealer to get a price on a new heater core. Within moments you are gasping for air as the man behind the counter looks over his computerized inventory and quotes an outrageously high price. For a moment you don't know whether to whack the guy over the head or start driving around with a portable heater you plug into your car's cigarette lighter. Quickly you dismiss either option and decide to take matters into your own hands.
Fortunately a heater core isn't all that difficult to change yourself. For most cars, a heater core can be reached by pulling out the dash or checking under the hood adjacent to the firewall, locating the unit, yanking it out, and replacing it with a new one. Naturally, you will pay gobs of money through your dealer's parts department, but you have other options besides visiting the dealer or making a futile trip to your local junkyard: shop the internet.
That's right, online auto parts wholesalers carry Jeep heater cores and heater cores for just about any make/model of car out there. Best yet, when shopping with a wholesaler like the Heater Core Experts, you can save big bucks. By purchasing direct from the manufacturer, a first class wholesaler will turn around and sell a heater core to you for less. A lot less than what Mr. Parts Dealer would charge and without you having to pay for labor costs either.
Yes, you could always ignore the problem and hope that Spring comes early and stays forever, or you can sell your first born child and head over to your dealer's part department and hope they have mercy on you...they most certainly will not! Better yet, shop online for an OEM replacement heater core that meets or exceeds manufacturer specifications, save big, and get warm!

Idea Auto Air Conditioning Repair

When your car or truck A/C is not blowing "cold air", the first thought is to panic. Money signs are going through your mind. Your A/C is broken and the repair is going to be expensive. This article takes the mystery out of automotive air conditioning and serves as a primer so that you can make common repairs yourself and save MONEY on professional repairs.
A/C Principles
There are books and publications that contain volumes of information on the subject of air conditioning repair. This information is often too technical for the you to learn how-to fix your auto air conditioning system.
In the nutshell, here is all that you need to know about the fundamentals of refrigeration so that you can fix your auto air conditioning system yourself.
Air conditioning is the process in which air inside the passenger compartment is cooled, dried, and circulated. Heat is removed from inside the vehicle and transferred to the outside air.
All air conditioners whether, it is an auto A/C, household refrigerator or home HVAC, work on the same principles. Namely, a liquid refrigerant is changed to a gas and then back to a liquid. If a change-of-state of the refrigerant is to take place, heat transfer must take place. The two (2) rules that apply to refrigerant are:
1. Refrigerant in a gaseous state collects, absorbs, and holds heat. 2. Refrigerant in a liquid state releases that heat.
A/C Operation and Components
For your auto A/C to blow "cold air", R-134A refrigerant must pass through and change state in three (3) components, one (1) receiver-dryer, and one (1) expansion valve that makes up the closed auto air conditioning system. The components of the system are:
1. Compressor - A device that pressurizes the heated refrigerant..
2. Condenser - A radiator for refrigerant that transfers the heat that was absorbed in the passenger compartment to the cooler air.
3. Evaporator - Is a small radiator located under dash in the passenger compartment. Liquid refrigerant entering the evaporator creates a pressure loss. The liquid refrigerant absorbs heat from the air blowing across the evaporator. It then boils and changes state to vapor before it enters the suction port of the compressor.
4. Receiver-Dryer - Is a canister that stores the liquid refrigerant when the compressor is not running. It contains a desiccant that removes moisture from the system.
5. Expansion Valve - Is a metering device that controls the amount of refrigerant to the evaporator.

A/C Quick Check
A check that can easily be made to check the health of the A/C system is the "feel check". With engine running, turn the auto A/C control to "ON" and the blower on "high". Take a test drive to warm the engine until the A/C system pressures stabilize. Raise the hood. With the A/C "On", locate the large tubing connected and routed from the compressor (low side) to the expansion valve (inlet side) of the evaporator. Next, locate the small tubing that is connected to the discharge-side of the compressor and routed to the outlet side of the evaporator. When you feel these two (2) lines, you should observe these results:
1. The low-side line should feel "cool" to the touch. 2. The high-side line should feel "warm" to the touch.
If the high-side tubing is not warm and the low-side is not cool, further tests will have to be made as the system is not doing any work. There is an internal problem; such as, a defective component or a leak in your A/C system.
Testing A/C System
Before system temperature tests can be made, a checklist should be followed (below) to setup for testing the A/C system:
1. Set the A/C "ON-OFF" switch to "ON". 2. Set the temperature control to "maximum cooling". 3. Set the blower on "high" or the highest number on the control switch. 4. Temperature inside passenger compartment should be stable and getting cooler. 5. Engine speed must be a minimum of 1500 rpm's. 6. All windows should be be in the "UP" position.
Check Temperature
Your compact car or truck has a small capacity A/C system and a loss of "cooling" would be more noticeable than a larger capacity auto A/C system. If a noticeable loss of "cooling" capacity is noticed, a temperature check at the vent registers should be made. This check can be made with an instant read or digital temperature thermometer.. The discharge air from the vents in the passenger compartment should range from 38 to 42 degrees F.
A/C System Diagnosis
Assuming that the discharge air test measured at the vent registers is out-of-range, a system pressure test will have to be made. Professional A/C technicians connect a tool known as the manifold gauge set to the "low" and "high" side service valves of the system. For you to diagnose and look inside the A/C, it will be necessary to become proficient in the use of the manifold gauge set.
A manifold gauge set that is suitable for the needs can be purchased at most auto supply stores and Internet A/C tool and supply store fronts for less than $50.00. TIP: Look for a gauge set that has a built-in sight glass.
Locate the "low" and "high" side service valves.. Connect the hoses (they are a snap connector fit) to the service valves in the following manner:.
1. Connect the blue hose of the gauge set to the "low-side" service valve of the compressor. 2. Connect the red hose of the gauge set to the "high-side service valve of the compressor. 3. The yellow hose of the gauge set is connected to a vacuum pump or a refrigerant can to add refrigerant to the system. The yellow hose is not connected to the system at this time.
Static Test
If you find an out-of-range temperature reading, the manifold gauge set should be installed on the "low" and "high-side" service valves. With the engine "OFF" and the compressor and clutch not engaged, the blue "low-side" and red "high-side" gauges should show equal readings of approximately 80 to 120psi. These readings would indicate that there is a refrigerant charge in your A/C system. If the readings were 50psi on each gauge, this would indicate that there is refrigerant in the system but a LOW CHARGE. If the readings were 10 to 20psi on each gauge would indicate that there is little or no refrigerant in your A/C system.
Engine Running Test
Start the engine,.turn the A/C switch"ON" with the blower on "high" and run for a minimum of fifteen (15) minutes. Observe the reading on the manifold gauge set. TIP: A manifold gauge set with a built-in sight glass (mentioned above) will save you diagnostic time as most A/C systems do not have a sight glass built-in the receiver-dryer on the high side of the system.
With this feature, you look for bubbling refrigerant oil and refrigerant in the sight glass on the manifold. Oil moving through the glass would indicate that the compressor and clutch are engaged. Refrigerant is being moved from the low-side throughout the A/C system in the refrigeration cycle.
Low Charge
With the engine running, A/C switch "ON", and the manifold gauge set installed, a "low-side" pressure reading of 20psi over 150psi would indicate that your A/C system has a LOW CHARGE. The low reading of 150psi on the "high-side" gauge would be the tell tale that the system is doing very little work. A LOW CHARGE usually is an indicator that there is a refrigerant leak from a component on the "low" or "high-side" of the A/C system. A refrigerant leak in the system would have to be repaired for the A/C system to blow "cold air". TIP: REFRIGERANT DOES NOT WEAR OUT, IT LEAKS OUT. Some symptoms to look for a LOW CHARGE condition are:
1. Compressor clutch short cycling. 2. Clutch will not engage. 3. Little or no cooling. 4. Oily residue on hoses and components.
Leak Checking
For your A/C system to blow "cold air", refrigerant leaks will have to be found and repaired. Usually, leaks in an A/C system are minor and can be fixed with a screwdriver or hand tools. Most A/C systems use schrader valves for easy connection of the manifold gauge set. That said, these are no more than overgrown bicycle valves that use a valve core. When you are checking a system, the valves are the first place check for a leak. Other targets; such as, oil residue on hoses connected to the compressor is the second place that should be checked. TIP: When tightening the bolts to the suction and discharge ports of the compressor with hand tools, do not over tighten. Rubber 0-rings are placed on the suction and discharge ports of the compressor for sealing. The seals will create a leak when over tightened. Only tighten snug.
When your A/C system has a LOW CHARGE, a refrigerant charge will have to added to check for the leak. Refrigerant that contains a dye for leak checking a system is used for this purpose. The manifold gauge set, refrigerant, and a can tap valve will be needed to add refrigerant to check for a leak in the system.
Connect the manifold gauge set as discussed above. Connect the yellow hose to the can tap valve and front seat (turn clockwise) the valve. Close the blue gauge on the manifold gauge set. Open the valve on the can tap valve. Slowly open the valve on the blue or "low-side" gauge and let the refrigerant flow from the refrigerant can into the system until you see a reading of 60psi on the "low-side" gauge. TIP: Placing the refrigerant can in a pan of hot water will allow the vapor refrigerant to enter the A/C system quicker. WARNING: Do not invert the refrigerant can. Doing so will allow liquid refrigerant to enter the system resulting in a ruined compressor.
Professional A/C technicians use an electronic leak detector to find leaks in an system. Use a battery-powered UV leak detector kit and special UV glasses. This kit can be purchased at auto supply stores and Internet A/C supply store fronts.
The UV glasses should be worn when checking for leaks. Simply place the tip of the detector on a fitting or connection to each component to be checked in the A/C system. When a leak is found, a light greenish color will be seen through the UV glasses.
Air Flow
An often overlooked cause of your A/C system not blowing "cold air" is debris that clogs the condenser. Bugs, plastic bags, and leaves from city and highway driving will prevent air from passing through the fins of the condenser. The condenser should be cleaned with a cleaning solvent. Bent fins on the condenser should be straightened with a fin comb.
Restrictions
A restriction is a condition that is a blockage. Usually, it is traced to the outlet side of the condenser. Some form of debris has formed causing a restriction of refrigerant flow through the condenser tubes.. The passages in the tubes of most condensers that are used in compact cars and trucks are very small. An effective way to diagnose a restriction in your A/C system is the manifold gauge set. The "high-side" (red) gauge would move into the DANGER zone, over 300psi.
System Repairs
When a system has been opened, and a component removed, moisture has entered the system. For your A/C to blow "cold air", that moisture will have to be removed with the aid of a vacuum pump.
At this stage of the repair, you have two (2) choices to finish the repair of your A/C system. The first choice is take the car or truck to an A/C professional. At their shop, they will evacuate the system, check your work, and recharge the A/C system for a fee.
The second choice is to repair your A/C system yourself. You will need to borrow or buy a vacuum pump to finish the repair. A small 2-stage vacuum pump that is designed for automobile refrigeration systems is available for less than $100.00.
After replacing a component, moisture has entered the system during the repair. For the A/C system to blow "cold air" the moisture will have to be removed. Install the manifold gauge set to your car or truck service valves as described above. After repairs, your A/C system is evacuated and recharged by applying the below steps:
1. Blue hose to the "low-side" service valve.
2. Red hose to the "high-side service valve.
3. Yellow hose to the suction port of the vacuum pump.
4. Close the hand valve to the vacuum pump.
5. Back seat (open) the hand valves on the blue and red gauges of the manifold gauge set.
6. Connect the electrical power to the vacuum pump.
7. Open the hand valve on the vacuum pump.
8. Run the vacuum pump for three (3) minutes.
9. The needle on the "low-side" gauge (blue) show should be in a vacuum at 28.3hg.
10. A system with no leaks will pull a vacuum of 28.3hg in three (3) minutes.
11. If the needle of the blue gauge did not fall to 28.3hg, the evacuation will have to be aborted as there is a leak in your car or truck A/C system.
12. The leak will have to be found in the A/C system using the UV detector and UV glasses.
13. Once the leak has been found and repaired, continue the evacuation steps as described above for 25 minutes.
14. Front seat (close) the hand valves on the blue and red gauges and observe the needle on the blue gauge.
15. The needle should hold steady at 29hg, indicating a tight system with no leaks.
16. Any needle movement toward "0" on the blue "low-side" gauge would indicate a leak in the system and the evacuation would have to be aborted and conduct a search for the leak.
16.Look in the owners manual or service manual for the factory recommended refrigerant charge. It is usually from 16 to 28 ounces.
17.Attach the can tap valve to a can of refrigerant Make sure that the tap valve hand valve is front seated (closed).
18. Turn the A/C control switch to the "ON" position and blower switch to "high".
19. Start the engine and run at 1500rpm's.
20. Place the refrigerant can in a pan of hot water. Warning: Do not invert the can for this process as liquid would enter the system and ruin the reed valves of the compressor.
21. Continue this process until the factory charge (approximately 2 1/2 cans) has entered the system.
22. Shutoff your car or truck engine and let the A/C system stabilize. When the readings on the red and blue gauges are equal, remove the blue "low-side" hose from the service valve.
23. Restart the engine and remove the red "high-side" hose from the service valve.
24. Close the hood and take your car or truck for a three (3) mile test drive.
25. Place an instant read or digital thermometer in the vent register in the passenger compartment.
26. The temperature should range from 38 to 42 degrees F on a 90-degree day.
Tools and Materials
1. Manifold gauge set 2. Vacuum pump 3. Hand tools 4. Battery powered UV leak detector 5. Can tap valve 6. 134A refrigerant dye 7. 134A refrigerant 8. Instant read temperature thermometer 9. Digital temperature thermometer

Car Air Conditioning Repair

Auto air conditioning repair is often compared to a detective's job. Problems may occur in any part of the air conditioner and at times it is not possible to identify the exact nature of the problem, hence it becomes necessary to contact a mechanic who is well versed in the repair of an air conditioning system.
Auto air conditioning may be damaged by leakage in systems, low level of refrigerants, clogging in condensers, and failure of compressors. Some of the problems are simple and can be handled on your own. Some others need technicians to perform the task. To facilitate this, a number of auto repair shops are available. Along with basic auto mechanic tools, some specialty tools are also needed, this depends on the type and area where repairing services are needed. Air conditioning repair manuals serve as ideal companions when repairs are needed.

There are certain facts one must know about auto air conditioning repair. A/Cs are designed to keep the vehicles cool. The repairers must be familiar with five important components, such as compressor, refrigerant, condenser, expansion valve, and dryer or evaporator. In some vehicles, accumulator and orifice tubes are used instead of expansion valves and dryers. One must have a detailed knowledge of the whole mechanism involved in air conditioning systems.
A proper mechanic can check out leakages without pulling the machine parts apart. In addition to basic components, other accessories including switches, fuses, wires, and fan belts are checked as part of auto air conditioning repair.
Auto air conditioning repair is quite expensive. Most of the auto part stores sell air conditioning parts at a high cost. Hence, expenditure is high even if repairs are carried out by vehicle owners themselves.